holley sniper efi iac problems

If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. The symptoms I had was a low cold start idle and going lean coming to a stop. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. It didnt do this with the carb on it. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? nothing stays steady. MSD pro billet and 6AL box knowledge with the sniper efi setup. Did your process to adjust idle to 860. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. I would disregard any correlation between idle control between the Stock and Street/Strip setups. It is a common one. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. shut truck off. It will still change a bit with weather changes and when you get into infrequently-used sections of the map, but it's nothing to worry about.Regarding your idle speed immediately after start-up, that is determined by your Idle Parked Position. Realize that when you drop the throttle, the engine enters a condition it will only see for a fraction of a second at a time. But they are 100% committed to your satisfaction. I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. Throttle body mounted ECU - no extra boxes to mount. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! Why is this? $107.95. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. You are aware of the idle-up problem. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. me know how it works for you. First thing I would check The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? holley efi. Jump on board now! If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. Should the iac% fluctuate? :-). Do please let us know what you find out! Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . My guess is a faulty IAC since it is intermittent and I have not done any setup changes. Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. Intake has been on and off 3 times no change. One of them might be faulty. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. We offer some tips to help with that. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. Really appreciate the amount of learning im getting off here. Reducing that a bit will help. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. The fix? Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . I'm so glad you found this helpful--that makes my day!Don't get too concerned about the specific learn percentage. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. Your issues are likely related to one of these two things. They also worked with me on a sale I missed and price matched those parts. It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! Or ?I have put a fuel pressure gauge right at the inlet of the sniper and it is reading 60-64 psi. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. Second--even in the HP and Dominator systems where a fuel pressure sensor can be dalogged and displayed, the fuel pressure is not fed back into the algorithm. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. Enjoy! )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. :-). Always had to set idle above 950. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. such high fuel pressure. That is not the way to go. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. Interesting situation you have. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. I have not heard of this. That It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. What I would recommend is getting somewhere that you can spend a significant amount of time doing starts. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. In the Wizard, select the stock cam setting. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. no timing control. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. back to trying to zero down an idle. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an . Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. Super helpful and knowledgeable. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. I had HIGH Idle issue and fixing this curve FIXED the ISSUE --- THANK YOUCan you explain what "Current Learn % means, after finally fixing the idle problem this % jump from -1 to -30% in about 5 minutes at idle with CTS @ about 170.Also when starting the car at hot the engine goes to about 2300+ RPM for a few seconds then crashes down to my Hot idle speed of 950 -- bounces a little and then smooths out. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . If you use your handheld to go here: That is the default "Clear Flood" TPS setting and turns all fuel off until the engine cranks. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, I hold my foot steady in place it does this in 5 second cycles and if i let go of It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) All times are GMT-6. It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low. Enjoy your Sniper! And, hopefully, within those degrees you will find a place where you don't get the whistle. It will drop down to 400 RPM then climb 500 and then shoot to 900 and then come back sometimes two or three times then catch it self an idle just fine again. So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? Maybe here will work better ?Sniper High Fuel PSIMy fuel psi is over 90 according to a brand new Auto Meter pro mechanical gauge tied in at the inlet to the Sniper using an AN adapter.I did the search function on here and found a similar high PSI issue that was fixed by clearing the return line.I have checked the return line hose for kinks and have removed it and blew thru it without any back pressure. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. The distributor was loose. You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. I installed another return spring for the rear plates problem solved instantly. and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. If I cruise down the road at lets say 60 mph and lay into it, she will take off and go. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. Is this normal ? When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? All of the wiring exits below the rear fuel injector cover, for a completely stealth installation. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. Cheers Darren. Get a solid feeling for where it is when the engine is warm and the idle speed is correct. Do I have to hook up sniper ac wire to relay or should iac pick up idle? That disappears as soon as the throttle is pressed and then you immediately revert to your timing table.You can certainly use the compressor to initate the IAC Kick, but remember that this is just a temporary idle boost to ensure that the engine doesn't die when the AC is first turned on. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. Was perfect idle iac reading 3. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. The RPM would increase for no reason. Thanks for the info Chris. So something is triggering the ECU to be in Open Loop. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. My problem is low idle. It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. Pw. But as you see from the recent revision I did above you seem to be having a fixable issue. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. Idle was back to normal but iac was at 0. But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. Let's start by not assuming anything. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. I can get it to fire up on the Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. I have been able to get it pretty I am right back to where I started. It then started working normally again. Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. If the screen shows iac at 0 and you block the hole to find it open what does that mean? The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. Shut off car/restart and it's back to idle at I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? Okay, try my method. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. I'd say make sure you buy from someone who can give you good after-purchase help (hint!) Not that I noticed. Thanks for any help. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. Give us a hand! Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. Hot start it most of the time wont start unless I give it a little throttle. Comp. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. I would recommend that you call first thing in the morning, as they tend to get quite busy during the day and wait times can get long. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. :-). You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) Just getting it to act right at startup is a struggle. Don't be surprised if one or the other is slightly open. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? (Do this while you are cranking.) I have probably 200 - 300 miles on this engine and it has always done this. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. TPS% = 1 If the IAC number is increased during this high idle, review the points about high idle from tuning issues. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. P.S. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. I have certainly seen this before on other fuel injected vehicles when hot. I would start by removing the progressive linkage. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. If so remove it. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted.

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